Ethnic Cuisine: Lebanon
At one time the mere mention of the country Lebanon would conjure up images of sun-drenched beaches, snow-capped mountains and a cultured, hospitable population bearing a vibrant, healthy cuisine. With its world class museums, universities and exciting nightlife, Beirut was often referred to as "the Paris of the Middle East." Unfortunately, because of the civil war (1975-1991) most only remember the violence and destruction that came close to annihilating this beautiful little country. Today however, tourism is up and rebuilding is being done at an astonishing rate; Lebanon is currently one of the largest construction sites in the world. This isn't the first time that Beirut has been rebuilt, as early as the 6th century the city was destroyed by devastating earthquakes and later a tidal wave and citywide fire. After each destruction the city was rebuilt to recapture its original splendor, this time is no exception.
The similarities between most Middle Eastern cuisines cannot be denied. With the language of the countries surrounding the eastern and southern Mediterranean being predominantly Arabic, many of the dishes carry the same names from region to region, though they may be prepared or seasoned somewhat differently. Because of this, the cuisines of the Middle East are often sadly lumped into one homogenous category, when in truth they can vary greatly. To view the cuisines of the Middle East as one is like proclaiming that all cuisines of Western Europe are alike. Lebanese food, for example, combines the sophistication and subtleties of European cuisines with the exotic ingredients of the Middle and Far East.
The cuisine of Lebanon is the epitome of the Mediterranean diet. It includes an abundance of starches, fruits, vegetables, fresh fish and seafood; animal fats are consumed sparingly. Poultry is eaten more often than red meat, and when red meat is eaten it is usually lamb. It also includes copious amounts of garlic and olive oil-nary a meal goes by in Lebanon that does not include these two ingredients. Most often foods are either grilled, baked or sautÈed in olive oil; butter or cream is rarely used other than in a few desserts. Vegetables are often eaten raw or pickled as well as cooked. While the cuisine of Lebanon doesn't boast an entire repertoire of sauces, it focuses on herbs, spices and the freshness of ingredients; the assortment of dishes and combinations are almost limitless. The meals are full of robust, earthy flavors and, like most Mediterranean countries, much of what the Lebanese eat is dictated by the seasons.
With the recent emphasis on the health benefits of Mediterranean cuisine, many Americans are discovering and embracing authentic Lebanese food. The awareness of this ancient cuisine has also inspired professional chefs and restaurateurs across the country to feature exciting Lebanese items on their menus.
Situated between the east and the west, Lebanon is a culinary and cultural crossroads. Lebanon is located on the eastern most shore of the Mediterranean in the Fertile Crescent, where western civilization is said to have begun. The cuisine of this ancient land is diverse and steeped in history; both the eastern and western influences in its cookery are apparent. Though its mainstream popularity is relatively new, the cuisine is not; the cuisine of Lebanon has been in the making since pre-biblical times. The influence that Lebanon has had on the world is totally out of proportion to its size; culinary contributions from this tiny country have had the greatest impact on modern Middle Eastern cuisine. Roughly encompassing an area of land the size of Connecticut, the people and cuisine of Lebanon are known throughout the world-Lebanese cuisine is a true reflection of its welcoming culture.
The national dish of Lebanon is kibbeh, an emulsified paste of the freshest lamb and bulgur wheat. Think of kibbeh as a sort of Lebanese patÈ. Originally, kibbeh was made by pounding lamb with a jorn (mortar) and modaqqa (pestle), then kneading in spices and soaked bulgur. To some, that are unaccustomed to this procedure, this can be an unpleasant sight. The informative English food writer George Lassalle, in his book Middle Eastern Cuisine, East of Orphanides, describes kibbeh-making in the rural villages of Lebanon as "frightening." He found the incessant pounding and kneading of the meat and bulgur both dreary and alarming. With the advent of the electric grinder and food processor this ancient method of kibbeh-making has all but stopped, except in the most rural villages. Often in American cities with large Lebanese and Syrian populations you'll find butchers that specialize in "kibbeh meat": lamb that is ground two or three times to form an emulsification.
Kibbeh can take on many forms, the most famous being kibbeh nayee (raw kibbeh) which is somewhat like steak tartar. Two other common forms of the food are kibbeh bil-saneeya (baked kibbeh) and kibbeh rass (fried kibbeh), both of which usually contain a filling of cooked meat and pinenuts. Baked kibbeh is layered in a pan with its stuffing and drizzled with olive oil, while fried kibbeh is shaped into miniature hollowed out footballs and then stuffed before being fried. Both of these cooked kibbeh are often served with refreshing yogurt sauce. Despite advancements in modern technologies, kibbeh-making is still an arduous task and usually reserved for holidays, festivals or Sunday dinner.
Literally not a meal is eaten in Lebanon that does not include bread. It is seasoned with zahtar (thyme-sumac seasoning) and olive oil for breakfast, and utilized both as a foodstuff and eating utensil for virtually every meal or snack. Bread is regarded so highly in the Middle East that in some Arabic dialects it is often referred to as "esh," meaning life. In an area of the world that is steeped in biblical history it is easy to remember that in the Christian church bread symbolizes the body of Christ.
While one may not think of Lebanon as a particularly well-known wine region, there are a few beautiful Lebanese-made wines available in the United States. From the Bekaa Valley, for example, you'll find Ksara and Ch’teau Kefraya. Ksara is an excellent, full-bodied red and its winery, founded by Jesuit priests, is the largest in the Middle East. Ch’teau Kefraya produces a light and pleasant rosÈ. And from the Mount Lebanon region is Ch’teau Musar (this author's personal favorite), which is an outstanding, full-bodied red. Ch’teau Musar is produced by a Frenchman and his son who migrated to Lebanon decades ago; their wine has the rich-fullness of classic Bordeaux.
The entire Mediterranean rim is known for their anise-flavored liqueurs. In the South of France there is Pastis, in Italy you'll find Sambuca, in Greece Ouzo, and in Lebanon there is the ubiquitous Arak. Arak is the national drink of Lebanon. Interestingly, these anise-flavored liqueurs came into existence around the turn of the century as a substitute-out of desperation actually-when the infamous beverage Absinthe became illegal. Absinthe was a bitter, anise-flavored liqueur that was popular with writers, painters and other freethinking types during the mid-to-late 1800's. It was originally produced about a century prior to treat malaria. However, the essential flavoring came from the bitter root of the wormwood plant and was reputed to have narcotic properties with disastrous side effects-prolonged consumption of the beverage caused lesions on the brain. When absinthe became illegal, manufacturers substituted anise for the wormwood, to supply the demand, and a number of close imitations were produced including Pernod, Sambuca and various brands of Arak and Ouzo.
In Lebanon, very rarely are drinks served without being accompanied by food. One of the more healthy and entertaining aspects of Lebanese cuisine is the manner or custom in which their food is often served, it's referred to as mezze. Similar to the tapas of Spain and antipasto of Italy, mezze is an array of small dishes placed before the guests creating an awe-inspiring array of colors, flavors, textures and aromas. This style of serving food is less a part of family life than it is of entertaining and cafÈs. Mezze may be as simple as pickled vegetables, hummus and bread, or it may become an entire meal consisting of grilled marinated seafood, skewered meats, a variety of cooked and raw salads and an arrangement of desserts.
Although simple fresh fruits are often served towards the end of a Lebanese meal, there is also dessert and coffee. Baklava, which is usually associated with Greek cuisine, is also a popular Lebanese dessert. The main difference between the Lebanese variety and its Greek cousin, is Lebanese baklava often contains pistachio nuts and is drizzled with a rose-water syrup, the Greek variety usually contains walnuts and honey.
Coffee is a big deal in Lebanon. It is served throughout the day, at home and in the public cafÈs. Lebanese coffee is strong, thick and often flavored with cardamom. It is also usually heavily sweetened. When guests arrive at one's home, they are invariably persuaded to stay for a coffee, no matter how short their visit.
The food of the entire Mediterranean region is a celebration of life; it is fresh, flavorful, diverse and invigorating. While speaking with a Lebanese chef who had once operated a restaurant in the South of France, I questioned him on the food of the sun-drenched Mediterranean. He said that the genius of it was in its simplicity, and that the food was a product of both the earth and the sea. He also told me of the natural bond that all of the Mediterranean cuisines share, from the tip of Spain to his homeland in the Levant, "the same waters equally splash all of the countries around the Mediterranean". With that said, I walked away a content and happy diner.
Tabouleh (Bulgur Wheat, Parsley, and Mint Salad)
Yield: 4-6 servings
3/4 cup bulgur wheat
2 cups warm water
2 cups chopped parsley
3/4 cup chopped mint
1/2 cup sliced green onions
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tablespoon lemon juice
2 diced tomatoes
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon pepper
Soak the bulgur wheat in the warm water for 1/2 hour, or until it is soft. When the bulgur wheat is soft, squeeze out any excess water.
In a large bowl, combine the bulgur wheat, parsley, mint, green onions, olive oil, lemon juice, tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate for 1/2 hour before serving.
Fattoush (Toasted Bread Salad)
Yield: 4-6 servings
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup chopped mint
1/2 cup lemon juice
3/4 cup olive oil
1 loaf flatbread
6 leaves romaine lettuce, torn into 1 inch pieces
1 diced cucumber
2 diced tomatoes
1/2 cup sliced green onions
1/2 cup diced bell pepper
1/2 cup chickpeas
In a small bowl, combine the garlic, salt, pepper, mint, lemon juice, and olive oil. Let stand for 1/2 hour.
Toast the bread in a 350 oven for 5 minutes, or until it is golden brown and crispy. Break the toasted bread into 1 inch pieces.
In a large bowl, combine the bread, romaine lettuce, cucumber, tomatoes, green onions, bell pepper, and chickpeas. Drizzle the dressing mixture over the salad, toss it together, and serve at once.
Hummus bil Tahina
Yield: 3-1/2 cups
3 cups chickpeas
1 tablespoon fresh minced garlic
1 cup tahini (sesame butter)
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup cold water
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 tablespoon virgin olive oil
2 teaspoon paprika
1/4 cup chopped parsley
PurÈe the chickpeas and garlic in a food processor, add the tahini, lemon juice, cold water, salt, and cayenne pepper; purÈe another minute or two until the mixture is very smooth.
To serve: place the hummus on a plate that has been lined with lettuce leaves, make an indentation in the center of the hummus and pour in the olive oil. Sprinkle with paprika and chopped parsley across the hummus. Serve with Arabic flatbread or pita.
Roast Red Pepper Hummus
Yield: 4 cups
3 red bell peppers
3 cups chickpeas, canned or cooked and rinsed
1 tablespoon fresh minced garlic
1 cup tahini (sesame butter)
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon chili powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 tablespoon virgin olive oil
1/4 cup fresh minced parsley
Place the whole peppers in an oven-proof skillet and set them to cook in a preheated 450 F. oven. Turn the peppers every 10 minutes; roast them for approximately 30 minutes or until the skins have blackened. Place the roast peppers directly from the oven into a paper bag and seal it closed. Allow the peppers to rest for 10 minutes in the bag, this will loosen their skins. Remove the peppers from the bag and while holding them under cool running water, peel away the black skins and remove the stems and seeds; all that should remain is the flesh of the roast peppers.
Combine the roast peppers, chickpeas and garlic in a food processor and purÈe until smooth. Add the tahini, lemon, paprika, chili powder, cumin, salt and cayenne pepper; purÈe another minute until the mixture is very smooth.
To serve: place the hummus on a large plate that has been lined with lettuce leaves. Make an indentation in the center of the hummus and pour in the olive oil. Sprinkle the parsley across the hummus and serve with Arabic flatbread or pita.
Baba Ghanouj (Roast Eggplant PurÈe)
Yield: 8 servings
3 medium eggplant
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
3/4 cup tahini
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons salt
Split the eggplant lengthwise; brush them with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Place the eggplant cut-side down on a sheetpan and roast at450 for 20-30 minutes or until the eggplant is very soft. Allow the eggplant to cool to room temperature.
When they are at room temperature scoop out the flesh of the eggplant with a spoon and discard the skins. Place the flesh of the eggplant in a colander to drain for about 20 minutes.
Place the drained eggplant in a food processor along with the lemon juice, tahini, garlic, salt, cayenne pepper, ground cumin and the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Puree until the mixture is smooth and thick. Refrigerate at least 1 hour before serving.
Green Beans with Onions, Tomatoes and Mint
Yield: 4-6 servings
1 pound fresh green beans
2 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup diced onion
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
1-1/2 cups canned, diced tomatoes
1/2 cup water or chicken stock
2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Wash the green beans and pick both ends. Cut them into 2 to 3 inch lengths.
Heat the olive oil, over high heat, in a large sautÈ pan. Add the onions and sautÈ them until they just begin to caramelize (3-4 minutes), add the garlic and sautÈ another 2 minutes. Stir in the cinnamon, salt, black pepper and mint; sautÈ for 2 minutes while stirring.
Add the diced tomatoes, water or stock, lemon juice and green beans. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover the pan and allow the beans to simmer until they are fully cooked (10-15 minutes).
Lebanese Chicken and Rice
Yield: 4 servings
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
4 ounces diced onion
12 ounces ground beef or ground lamb
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
3/4 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 cups long grain rice
3 cups hot chicken stock, lamb stock or water
2 tablespoons minced parsley
Heat the olive oil over high heat in a heavy bottomed pan (pref-erably cast-iron). SautÈ the chicken breasts on both sides until they are golden brown. Remove the chicken breasts from the pan and set aside.
Add the onion and ground beef or ground lamb to the same hot pan. Cook until the onions and meat is beginning to brown, then add the garlic and cook another minute or two. Add the cinnamon, allspice, cayenne pepper and salt; sautÈ two minutes while stirring.
Stir in the rice making sure that it is fully incorporated with the oil and spices, place the chicken breasts in the rice. Pour in the stock or water and cover with a tight fitting lid or aluminum foil. Bake in a 375 oven for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and sprinkle with minced parsley.
Kibbeh
2 cups medium bulgur wheat
2 pounds diced lean lamb
1 medium onion
2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon ground allspice
Ice chips (as needed)
Place the bulgur wheat in a bowl, cover with cold water and leave to soak for 10 minutes. Drain the bulgur in a colander and squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Place the drained bulgur in a dish and chill it along with the lamb for at least 1 hour.
Fit a meat grinder with its finest grate and grind the meat twice. Grind the onion twice and combine it with the lamb, bulgur, salt, pepper and allspice. Pass this mixture through the grinder twice, adding a little ice chips if mixture begins to feel warm.
Place the kibbeh in a bowl and knead it to a smooth paste, adding iced chips when necessary. Place the kibbeh on a plate, cover it with plastic wrap and chill thoroughly.
At this point the kibbeh may be consumed raw as kibbeh nayee, or used as the base to any number of cooked kibbeh recipes.