Hearst Castle, San Simeon, CA

by Janice Shamberg

If you're going to be touring central California, seeing the Hearst Castle is a must. This extraordinary, lavish edifice stuffed with sumptuous Italian and Spanish art and antiques is the result of a 28-year-long collaboration between William Randolph Hearst and pioneering female architect Julia Morgan. You'll find the castle perched atop the rolling, verdant Santa Lucia Mountains of the central California coast on California Highway 1.

By the time one has driven to San Simeon to visit La Cuesta Encanta (The Enchanted Hill), more commonly called the Hearst Castle, one is already reeling from the breathtaking countryside just driven through. Still, the Hearst Castle dazzles like a diamond set among a bed of emeralds.

If driving from the direction of San Franciso, or points north, take US 101 south to California Highway 46 (the road on which James Dean wiped out) and head west to California Hwy 1. Then drive north about 13 miles.

If driving up from Los Angeles or other points south of San Simeon, take US 101 north to San Luis Obispo, then catch California Hwy 1 north about 40 miles.

Once in the vicinity, you'll notice large signs giving you directions. A cluster of new and well-signed buildings on the east side of the highway is where you must park, pay for your tour and catch your bus for the moderately harrowing fifteen-minute, five-mile, uphill ride to the castle.

The first tour begins at 8:20 am each day and the last tour begins at 3:20 pm during the winter -- later during the summer when days are longer. There are four different day tours at $14 each, covering different parts of the 165-rooms and 127-acres of gardens, terraces, pools, etc. encompassed by the Hearst castle. Each one lasts one hour 45 minutes (30 minutes total spent on the bus rides). It is suggested that anyone going for the first time begin with Tour No. 1, which is the most basic and also the least strenuous of the tours. For the perennially romantic, there is also a sunset tour on weekends for $25, which covers much more of the castle, takes two hours ten minutes to complete, and has a colorful ambience enhanced by docents dressed in 1930s period costumes. Whichever tour you choose, they all include Neptune's Pool, the Greco-Roman outdoor pool and the magnificent Roman Pool, which is lined with Venetian glass and real gold.

The best thing to do is to make your tour reservations ahead of time by calling 800-444-4445, requesting a specific time, specific tour by number, and giving a credit card number. Prices are less for children. My husband and I went midweek during the winter on the last tour of the day in blinding rain and the bus was still almost full. Imagine what it's like on a pleasant day in summer! The Hearst Castle ticket office is open from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm if you want to make your arrangements in person.

I don't know whether or not it's possible to select ones guide, but we would heartily recommend Bob Doyle. Mr. Doyle, an ex-educator, has been giving tours of the Hearst Castle since 1958, long before the Hearst Corporation gave the estate to the State of California. He is extremely knowledgeable, entertaining, and conversant about the date, style, and country of origin of every furnishing situated at the castle.

I don't want to give everything away about the castle or the tours, but do plan to do a lot of walking -- close to one-half mile and 150-400 stairs, depending on which tour you take. Take your camera (but no flashes allowed).

Recently a new IMAX theater was added. For $7.00 you can watch a 40-minute film on a huge screen which gives you more history and, my favorite part, a view of the castle from the air. It's very nicely done, but not a necessary component to the tour.

For more details, see: www.hearstcastle.com

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Note: This information was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the businesses in question before making your plans.

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